Day 22 Foncebadon to Ponferrada

I left the mountain side today at Foncebadon around 6.40 after a great breakfast provided by the albergue.
The distance today was some 27 kims.  I can honestly say that today was one of the hardest stages so far as not only we did considerable climbing but also descended more than 1000 meters over short distances.  Also the descend was over loose stones.  I would not have liked to do this stage if it had been raining.
The scenary was something out of a movie. Whilst I took lots of photos, although I am sure that these will not do justice to the geography of this area.
Some 45 minutes after leaving our albergue we reached the highest point in the whole Camino, where the Cruz de Ferro is to be found.  This is where all the peregrinos put the stones.  Whilst this is a simple cruz / cross the whole área is very serene.
We went up mountains and down valleys all day long and it seemed that this stage was not going to end.
We stopped at a great location for a break and a coffee in the middle of the mountains in a village named Acebo.
We reached Ponferrada around 1.50 pm.  We stayed at the Albergue municipal and we had to way over half an hour to register as there were many people before us.
The facilities at this place are very good specially the gardens and outside eating área.
We had one of the best lunches in this place / 4 course dinner all for under 10 euros.  As today was Wednesday we were able to visit a couple of museums for free.  The Templar fortress has been done up and it was great to visit this local place as well as a couple of other museums of Romand and Templar themes.
Met many Brazilians today who have started from this stage.
Tomorrow we walk to Villafranca del Bierzo.
Bye for now.  Jose

Day 21 Astorga to Foncebadon

I left the albergue in Astorga around 6.15 am today.  I know today is  going to be a hard day going up the mountain reaching nearly the highest point in the whole of the Camino.
The temparature is dropping significantly and this morning we had 0 degree.  I do not feel my fingers after about 15 minutes  on the road / as the weather is so cold with a wind that goes through you.
The route today is some 28 kms in length.  We pass many interesting villages including one named El Ganso, which in the 12C supported a considerable hospital for pilgriums..  It has many houses which are abondoned, but others which are now being renovated as a result of a resurgence of the Camino Pilgrimage.
This stage proves to be fairly challenging not only for its distance but also for the way the road or Camino is designed / many loose stones along the way. Many pilgrim are now tired and have significant blisters.
Foncebadon is a small village in the middle of the mountains / which have permanent snow.  It is a beautifull village and the only in the camino which does not have paved streets.  The views from the albergue are indescribable.  We had a great dinner at the albergue, and then discovered that there was a mediaval themed pub some 50 meters from our place.  I went there to take photos later on.
Early to bed tonight, as we will be climbing the highest point on the whole Camino tomorrow morning / where the Cruz de Ferro is situated.
Bye for now.  Jose

Day 20 Villavante to Astorga

I left Villavante , the Santa Lucia albergue around 6.15 pm today on the way to Astorga a larger town in the Leon región, which is famous of its handmade chocolates.  The distance today is some 23 kms over a relative flat route.  The geography continues to be very beautiful and interesting to the eye.
Our walking groiup of 5 stopped for breakfast at a great café in a place named Hospital de Orbigo- for the usual café con leche and croissants.  The Spanish breakfast par excellence.  This small village is famous for having one of the oldest bridges in Europe which was built over an old roman bridge.  They still celebrate the heroism of a noble man from the 14C, which also happens to be named in the Don Quijote book.
We arrived at our chosen albergue in Astorga - named Siervas de Maria, just agter 1 pm.  Today we had another hot day.
Astorga has an impressive catedral for such a samll town.  Also has a great building designed and constructed by Gaudi, el |Palacio del Obispo.
Had lunch7dinner at a great restaurant in the plaza mayor / fpr the pricely sum of 10 euros.
Walked around the town and had another coffee around another plaza / where the locals celebrated their victory over the Napoleón army with a great statue of a Lion.
Tomorrow we visit Foncebadon  a really hard day with great climbing.
Bey for now..  Jose

Day 19 Leon to Villavante

I left Leon's Orejas hotel around 6.30 am as we had been advised that at around 7 am there would be a local bus leaving the city for the 4 kms ride to la virgen del Camino - as to avoid all the industrial area.  Well there were 9 of us Peregrinos waiting for the bus that never came, so at around 8am we got 3 taxis to this area to then start the walking - some 22kms to our destination - Villavente a small villa which we reached around 1.30 pm.  I stayed at a great Albergue called Santa Lucia.  The weather was great although like the other days a bit warm around 11 am.

The Camino is now more varied as we are leaving the 

Meseta behind.

Saw the French couple who are traveling with the 2 mules.  They are a great sight to see.

Saw beautiful flowers and many old bridges along the Camino today.

Had dinner at the Albergue , yes you guessed I had the Peregrino menu- for a change.

Walked around the village after dinner.

Tomorrow I travel to Astorga a bigger town of some 16.000 people and a hilly stage over 25 kms.

Bye for now.  Jose .

Day 18 Leon

Today I had a free day in Leon.  Got up rather late around 7.45 and had breakfast at the hostal. Then become a real tourist for the day.  Visited many churches and museums, including the Basilica San Isidoro, the casa Botines, the archeological museum, the puerta del Obispo and other buildings.  Our Canadian friend Frank and his daughter Julia hosted as for midday dinner at a very nice restaurant called El Buche. This word Buche means mule in this part of Leon.  We - Jacques, Michael, and myself had a great time with Frank and Julia- a really nice and pleasant dinner.

Did more touring after lunch with Tomasina an American peregrina who is a Spanish teacher in Sacramento.

Went to bed relative early.  Tomorrow we go to Villavante, some 27 kms away.

Bye for now.  Jose

Day 17 El Burgo Ranero to Leon

Today left el Burgo Ranero around 6.40am, slept in as the proposed departure time was going to be 6.15 am. Heard the alarm in the iPhone at 6am and as I had a single room, turned over in bed and went back to sleep.

Today's stage is 37kms or which we will walk some 22kms and then take a local bus to avoid the industrial area coming into Leon. 

We walked to a town caked Mansillas de Mulas and arrived rhere around 1.20 am then waited for the bus to Leon - which according to our guide book would come every 30 minutes - after 50 minutes we decided to ask as the main bus station and we found that the next bus was not till 2 pm. We had missed the 11 am bus. Decided to have lunch at this town.  Bus arrived on time and it took only 20 minutes to get to Leon.  Got to the hostal  where we had a reservation to be told that there was a mistake and they were full today.  They helped us to be booked into another hostal around corner called Orejas - ears in Spanish.  Great place and very central.

Had light dinner and drinks with other Peregrinos around the Cathedral.

Went to bed later today as tomorrow is a rest day in Leon .   Lots to see tomorrow.

Bye for now. Jose

Leon is a relative large city of some 150.000 people with very interesting history and architecture.  One of Gaudi's best work the palacio de Botines is here. 

Also Leon was the first city in Europe where a king gave power to the people, so UNESCO has awarded Leon a special title to this city as a result of this social and political event.

The Cathedral is something special as is the Basilica de San Isidoro from the 11C.

Both have extreme significance in the Catholic tradition in Europe and more particularly in Spain.

Day 16 Terradillos de Los Templarios to El Burgo Ranero

Left The Albergue in Terradillos early today - is was still dark- called Pam on the mobile as I was walking through the small village. 

Had breakfast at San Nicolas - a very small town some 6 Kim's away,

Today's distance was some 31kms.

Flat stage, although the weather has been great, it was rather hot today

The meseta continue to amaze us all with its natural beauty and delightfully greens.

 

Thinking that I was behind some of the other people I was walking with, I started to walk faster, and not take as many breaks. The end result was that I got to our selected Albergue " la Laguna" before everyone else. Had reserved a single room for the night.  Such a luxury. Great place with a terrific garden and very good facilities.

Did all the washing, had a lovely and long  shower, waited for others to arrived then a few of us went for an early dinner.

As I had a tv in the room I decided to turn it on, not such a good idea, as elections are now in full swing for the European Parliament, other channels were as bad.

Wrote in the diary then relative early night for the long walk Leon.

I have to say that my body is crying out for a day of rest which I will have in Leon.

Bye for now Jose 

Day 15. Carrion de Los Condes to Terradillos de Los Templarios

Left Carrion de Los Condes around 6.15 am, the sun had not come up as of yet.

The stage was somewhat flat, although the main issue today was a stretch of some 18 kms with no water or shops of any kind.  Had to take lunch- which I bought at supermarket Lupa the day before - bread, sardines and a pomelo was my break and lunch today.

We travelled through an old roman road today for most of the 26.8 kms which was the Camino for today.

Had a break - coffee americano - read short black- at Calzadilla de la Cueza.

Arrived at our new albergue called Los Templarios around 1 pm. Beautiful casa rural with great gardens and a restaurant - where I had lunch and dinner tonight.

Only three beds in the room - better than last night.

Bye for now. Jose

Day 14 Boadillas del Camino to Carrion de Los Condes

Left the albergue early today on the way to Carrion de Los Condes some 27 kms away today. Weather was great today, although a bit hot. The meseta keeps on testing me with its flatness and similar landscape along the way.  Many pilgrims say that this is part of the Camino experience.

Went past the larger town of Fromista some 6 kms from today's start, had breakfast here. Saw some wonderful and beautiful churches or as they are referred to here Ermitas, such as the Etmita of la Birgen del Rio.

Saw the Templar church of Santa Maria, a 13C church.

I got to Carrion de Los Condes around 1 pm.  Stayed at the Albergue Spiritu Santo- a convent run the nun of the St Vincent the Paul Society.  Very hospitable  peopled.  Had 12 people in the room, and a number of heavy snorers.

Had dinner at a local bar - menu peregrino for something different.

Went to peregrino mass at the Santa Maria church.  This was a very personal mass.  Nun from the Augustine order said a prayer for all of us as well as given as small gifts for the Camino.  Many pilgrims became very emotional by this experience and were seen crying.

Went to bed early - but got very little sleep due to an american woman who was in the bed next to mine and was snoring like a fully loaded locomotive.

 Bye for now.  Jose

Day 13 Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino

Left Sta Brigida albergue early today. Did not have breakfast there as it was not going to be served till 6.40am

The stage today was over 30 kms, mostly over flat land - except for the stretch leaving Castrojeriz which is similar to the 1000s steps in the Dandenongs in Melbourne.

Castrojeriz is a lovely town with well kept period - read 16C houses and of course a great church dating back to the 12 C.

This is a fortified town from the Roman times.

We arrived at Boadilla del Camino at around 1 pm and stayed at a great place called albergue En else Camino. This place has agreat garden.

Had early dinner with Jacques and Michael.

A great many stork live in this town on top of churches.

Went to bed relative early today.

Day 12. Burgos to Hontanas

Left the Albergue Municipal early today on the way to Bar Los Toneles, where I left my backpack tone taken to tonight's destination Hontanas and more particular   The hiatal Santa Brigida.  My knee was hurting so the reason for sending the backpack - weighing some 14.5 kgs - by courier to the hiatal.  The road was long and hard today - weather was very hot- distance was some 30.5 kms.

N the way I passed the Ernita de San Nicolas, a 12C monastery.

Caning out of Hornillos there was a small hill that tested your heart. Hontanas is in a valley and you don't see this small hamlet until you are really on top of it.

Hostal is great.  Just 5 of us staying here tonight.  All of us chose the peregrino dinner.

Good day today.

Went toned early- somewhat with pain everywhere.  Hope the rest will help 

Bye for now. Jose

Days 9 Najera to Logrono and then Madrid

Day 9
Friday
Travelled from Najera to Logrono via bus and then took train to Madrid with Lawrence.
Lawrence and I arrived at Atocha train station around 17.45.
Had some difficulty findind the hotel Mexico - where we had made a reservation - so took a taxi.  Hotel was two blocks away from where we hired the taxi.
Lawrence was in pain, so went to bed after an early dinner.

Day 10
As there was a bath in the hotel room, it made it easy for Lawrence to have a bath and not get his arm wet - not a good idea with an arm in plaster.
Had a call from  nurse from the insurance company around 02.30, who was checking on Lawrence health progress.
Have arranged flights back to Australia for Lawrence - who leaves tonight - Friday night 2 May at 22.00 on route to Melbourne via Dubai.
We took the airport bus around 18.00 tonight.  I saw him off around 20.45.  A really sad moment.

During the day - whilst Lawrence was having a nap, I  had tried to buy a ticket - either by bus or train - to travel from Madrid to Burgos - but could not do so.  Coming out of the airport I managed to purchase a bus ticket - ALSA - to leave Madrid on route to Burgos on Saturday at 10.45.

Day 11
I took the airport bus at 9 am and then the ALSA bus to Burgos.  Arrived in Burgos around 13.15.  Went to preferred albergue but was full at the time of my arrival.  Talked to a few peregrinos and decided to go with a couple to the Albergue Municipal.  This albergue is in a great building which used to be an old castle.  Facilities are good and very clean, at only 5 Euros. At the reception met with old friends Neil and Gurnesay, as well as the couple from Manly Kerrie and Mark. Later I also had a chat with the Kiwi couple whom we had met at lunch time in Ventosa.  Lastly just before I started this page I caught with Ange the French photographer whom we had met at Ronceavalles.

The albergue  is close to the Cathedral and in  the old part of town. 
Burgos is a city of some 200.000 people with a great historical background.  The Cathedral is something to admire and also cry - gold is everywhere you look.  It is massive and beatiful at the same time.
Had lunch and also bought lunch for tomorrow for the long road to Hontanas, some 31.5 kms away from here.
Apart from walking around town , I took a little train that goes around town for 45 minutes.
Went to Pilgrim´s Mass at the Cathedral at 19.30.
Plan to go to bed early tonight. Tomorrow will be the start of the meseta. No proper internet to do do photos and videos on the Blog.
I am thinking  of Lawrence and hoping that he is safe in Melbourne by now.
Bye for now.....  Jose 

Day 8 - Logrono to Najera

Weather: Excellent for walking - bright sunny and cool.
Track : gentle and easy.
Distance: 31.1kms.
Logrono is a major regional center in Rioja and so it took us over an hour to actually walk clear of city precincts.
This region looks to be a major food and agriculture area for Spain.
We have now been walking for days past endless fields of wheat and barley and vineyards as far as the eye can see.
Conditions are ideal for our walk today but the 31km plus carrying 14kg of backpack is taking its toll.
We stopped for morning tea at a little village called Navarette which also boasted this magnificently ornate church - there is more gold in there than the whole of Kalgoorlie!!!!!
Continued onto Ventosa for lunch and struggled into Najera at about 3:30pm.
Found some appropriate lodgings and started to settle on for the day.
I went to have the usual clean up and shower but as can sometimes happen all your plans change in the blink of an eye!!!! Getting out of the shower I slipped and fell awkwardly and really hurt myself.
I didn't quite know how much at first but I knew I'd probably done something serious. Jose called an ambulance after a while and I went off to the local hospital.
The doc there had a look at me and diagnosed a broken left arm but could not confirm as their X-ray machine was closed. So off to Logrono again by taxi to the hospital.
Long story short the x-ray confirmed I have a broken left arm (ulna) which needs surgery.
The medicos gave me the option of waiting till mid next week to do the op or go home. I have chosen the latter!!!!
So.  No. More Camino for me!!!! !!!!!
We went back to Najera and rang home to advise a 'slight' change of plans.

Day 7 - Los Arcos to Logrono

Weather: sunny & clear - good walking and trekking weather.
Distance: 30kms
Track: excellent for a good days walk

Left Los Arcos relatively early for another long day on the trail. Walking i conditions were really good - again only a couple of "major" climbs which stretched out those already aching calf muscles.
On this particular day we came across this guy whom I later dubbed Mr. Camino 2014. Jose and I were struggling and labouring up these hills trying to carry our 14kg backpack and here's this guy with 2 backpacks on his shoulders zooming past us as if he was on a leisurely stroll hardly raising a sweat. To make matters worse I think he may have been older than myself and Jose. And to make matters even more worse he did this a couple of times on separate climbs !!!!!
Had some lunch at a village that we passed en route the name of which I cannot remember - we regularly pass 4 or 5 small villages between our stops.
Reached Logrono at approx 3:00pm and dumped our belongings in our albergue and began to look around. Logrono is a fairly major center of the Rioja region and as customary with these places there is an old part of the city ( which generally dates back the middle ages) and a more modern section.
We visited the Museo de Rioja, some other historical buildings and of course the cathedral which unfortunately was closed!!!! We also sampled the world famous "pinchos" , in Laurel street - some small snacky pastries that can be either beef, seafood or chicken based.
That night we had dinner with our favorite Camino friends Quinn, Sabrina, Danielle and Louise at their albergue. This would be the last time together as Danielle and Louise were leaving to go back to other work and destinations and Quinn and Sabrina were going on ahead by bus to ensure they reached Santiago by the 20th may. Said our final goodbye and went back to our albergue.