Day 31 Santiago to Finisterre

Today was our final day to say goodbye to my Camino friends.  Jacques had told us a few days ago that he wanted to host us for a nice breakfast in Santiago, so today was the day.

The people at the breakfast were: Jacques, Michael, Frank, Alfonso and I.

This was a time to reflect about each of our Caminos.  It was not a sad time as one of the things that I learned about this Camino experience is that there is always  new opportunities to experience friendships and share stories. I will always remember my Camino friends.

After breakfast Frank and I took the bus to Finisterre, a 3 hour trip.

Our hotel has amazing water views and after leaving my backpack there, we walk the 3.5 kms to Finisterre's lighthouse.  This is what people have determined is the end of the Camino.

The experience of reaching this place for me was similar to when I visited and walked around Uluru, incredibly spiritual in nature.

We walked around the area for some time before returning to the town area.

We had dinner at a restaurant close to the hotel, food was very good but the place was rather noisier.

Spoke with Pam via video Skype. 

Tomorrow we return to Santiago.

Bye for now. Jose 

Day 30 Salceda to Santiago de Compostela

We left our hostal in Salceda early today, around 6.10am for our last stage on the Camino - when we will reach Santiago after walking 31 kms.

When we leave Salceda it is still dark, so this is the first time when I use the torch.  It was really handy to have this equipment today.  It wasraining   very light from the start.

We reached O'Pedrouzo around 8.10 am  after walking for around 8.5 kms, so stopped there for breakfast.  By the time we were ready to restart our walk we sky had turned black and the rain was falling down heavily on us, this continued for the next 2 hours. Then, the sun came out and we did not have any more rain till after we reached Santiago.

Today's stage was certainly NOT flat, we were traveling up and down - like a yo yo - through the Galician countryside.

We went around the Labacolla airport - which is the Santiago airport- and I can tell you that the planes get very close to the Camino pathway.

The highest point of today's stage is Monte del Gozo, which is about just over 5 kms from the Cathedral.  The view from this point is great. The number of pilgrims during this stage goes up exponentially. Many school groups and elderly people get bussed to this point and then walk from here.

We reached the Santiago Cathedral a few minutes before 1 pm.  The feeling of being here after such a long journey is indescribable.  Joy and sadness are all there, but also a sense of achievement.

We decide to go to our accommodation prior to having lunch and visiting the pilgrim's office.

Our hostal is around the corner from the cathedral and from my room's window I can see the church's bell tower - so the name of the hostal - La Campana, the bell.

We met with other pilgrims with whom we have shared our Camino and we went out to a nice restaurant for lunch.

I received a call from Frank the Canadian pilgrim who walking with his daughter, indicating that he will be in Santiago shortly.  He also joined us for lunch a bit later.

After lunch we visited the Pilgrim's office- where you receive the Compostela, a certificate that you walked at least the last 100 kms of the Camino.  The queue when we got there was long, with over 50 people in it. It was raining but we decided to stay there, to obtain what was truly ours, the Compostela. The staff - many of whom are volunteers from a wide range of countries, check your Credential and ask you to sign a document that you have either walked or cycled the Camino.  The credential is a document that needs to be stamped by either the local priest or the people in the albergues where you stay each night.  This is proof that you have been in those locations which are part of the Camino.

We all received our Compostela, with our names written in Latin.

Jacques and Michael have decided to walk to  Finisterre, as they have a bit more time than me, before have to take a flight out of Spain. They will start their walk tomorrow after to 10am mass. Frank and I will travel to Finisterre, by bus tomorrow after breakfast.

We walk around town and I visited the Cathedral and stay for vespers in a small chapel - where I was asked by the priest to assist with the translations from English to Spanish.

By for now. Jose

Day 29 Melide to Salceda

Today our group of 3 left our Albergue - O'Cruceiro- around 6.15 am with light rain for our 26kms journey to the village of Salceda.

The rain stopped fairly soon afterwards and whilst the clouds remained with us all day long it did not rain.

I do not know if it was to do with the length of time on the Camino or today's distance but this stage was hard for us, although we have managed lengthier stages prior to today.

There were not too many hills today. We travelled through wonderful forest which made me reminisce about the Australian bush, as there many eucalyptus there.

We pass via the last mayor town before reaching Santiago, the town of Arzua.

We reached our hostel in Salceda around 2 pm just before the rain starts. We were lucky in this regard as some of the peregrinos that arrive a bit later are totally soaked.

The hostel was very nice and we have a room for the 3 of us.  No need to use our sleeping bags tonight, as the hostel has proper beds and linen.

We arrange for the washing to be done and after some confusion we have lunch/dinner. The confusion centred around the word dinner versus comer - which means to eat- the owner said you can eat now but you can not have dinner till 8 pm. In Spanish there is a clear difference between comer and having dinner. Anyway we had our midday dinner at around 3 pm, which is the time when the Spanish people tend to have their dinner.

During dinner - we met some other peregrinos whom we had seen along the Camino- and discussed our common and different experiences of Our Camino.

Tomorrow is the last stage, when we will reach Santiago, a long day for us with 31 kms.

Bye for now. Jose

Day 28 Hospital to Melide

Today I left the albergue in Hospital on route to Melide a larger town some 30.5 kms away.

The weather is indicating that we might get some rain today.

We start the walk climbing to Sierra Ligonde a steep climb first thing in the morning.

I have some breakfast in Portos some 9 kms from the start- a fairly long walk before eating something - but there were no bars open before this place.

I travel through the larger town of Palais de Rei today. From here to Melide is a fairly wild descent to Melide.

Melide is a larger town which is an administrative area for the government of the larger town.

We reached this place around 2pm and choose albergue O'Cruceiro, a great choice.

Melide is well known as the place to eat pulpo. We join our friends Carlos a Spanish pilgrim- who we have walked with over a week or so and his companion Alfonso a Dr from Holland for pulpo and langostinos at a local restaurant.

Tomorrow we are going to Salceda our last stage prior to reaching Santiago de Compostela on Thursday afternoon.

Bye for now. Jose 

Day 27 Barbadelo to Hospital

Today I left the Casa de Carmen in Bardelo around 6.15am on route to the village of Hospital.

As you might have worked out by now there are no flat stages in the Camino, and today I did more climbing and then a significant descent into the town of Portomarin.

This last town proved to be very attractive with a small but great plaza and  12C church of San Nicholas.  The interesting thing to note about Portomarin is that this town was rebuilt some 70 years ago after the building of a dam in the area. The church was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt in the new location. Each stone was numbered prior to being rebuilt.

We reached Hospital de la Cruz around 2 pm, just before the rain.  Fairly cold today. This is a very small village with only a few houses and the Albergue and the mandatory restaurant.

The albergue used to be a rural primary school.

Bye for now. Jose

Day 26 Tracastela to Barbadelo

Today I left our albergue in Triacastela around 6.20am for today's destination some 24.5kms away, the village of Bardelo. Like recent stages there was significant climbing and descents today.  I climbed Alto Riocabo at an altitude of 905 m.  The track took us through beautiful areas and small villages such as San Xil, Furela, Pintin, Calvor as well as the larger town of Sarria.

The weather continues to  amaze us all, as there has only being one day since I started in France. This is very unusual for this time of the year.

Sarria where I stopped for a coffee is a nice and ancient town- great building and a plaza.

Reached our albergue in Barbadelo around 1.30 pm and selected a country house to stay for the night - this place is called Casa de Carmen- a restored 17C house.

The albergue gets packed by 5 pm.

Had lunch at the restaurant in this place. The local speciality - Caldo Gallego - soup - proved popular with many pilgrims  tonight.

This place had a large and great garden so I made use of this facility and took a siesta there.

Tomorrow I walk to Hospital some 30kms away, so it should be an early start.

Bye for now. Jose

Day 25 La Laguna to Triacastella

Another challenging stage today of some 25 kms from La Laguna to Triacastella. We start the morning around 6.15am climbing to O´Cebreiro. Had breakfast at a small bar at O´Cebreiro. The owner was a bit grumpy this morning and not very friendly. Once again travelled through stunning villages and countyside. Went through Hospital de la Condesa a wonderful small village with an 11C church and stunning plaza. Today the challenge proved to be the steep descent from 1300 meters to 670 meters where Triascatela is situated. Had booked accommodation at a very nice albergue named Berce do Camino. Reached this place around 1 pm today. Had lunch at a local restaurant where I had Churrasco - steak, with chips and also Galician Flan. Walked around town and also celebrated Jacques´birthday today. Tomorrow we visit Barbadello some 24 kms away. Bye for now. Jose

Day 24 Villafranca del Bierza a La Laguna

I lef the albergue early today for one of the hardest climb on the Camino, the climb of O´Cebreiro. I plan to walk to La Laguna, a place just before O´Cebeiro. This is the last village in the province of Leon. Today we climb to the highest altitude in Leon some 1300 meters from 600m in Villafranca. The distance today is some 29 kms. Today is a walk with stunning views, and the camera does not do any justice to what we are seeing. We travel through small vineyards and chestnuts farms. Whilst I stop in some villages for a coffee the farmers take their cows through the main street to a different area. It is a wonderful and interesting thing to see and experience. Quite clearly this is the area where many pilgrims decide to start ¨their Camino experience¨ as their number increases greatly from this area onwards. For those who have ankle or knee problems this stage is not recommended as there are many loose stones and the climb is extemely challenging in some parts. I arrive at the albergue La Escuela around 1.30 pm. This is a small and great albergue. 3 of us decided to have the Peregrino menu for lunch at the restaurant at the albergue. We try the speciality of Galicia - caldo gallego - galician soup, then beef stew and for dessert galician cheese and quince jam. We met again with Karl, an American from Pensylvania who is doing the Camino and is also seeking information about how to get to Madrid once he finishes his Camino. Three of us decided to call a taxi to visit O´Cebreiro - some 1.7 kms up the mountain - to see this village and ancient church. Attended peregrino mass which was said in many languages. Today I was really tired so early to bed for our journey to Triacastela tomorrow a distance of some 26kms. Bye for now. Jose

Day 23 Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

I left the albergue at Ponferrada around 6 am , and walked across to a restaurant across the road to have my Spanish style breakfast / café con leche and croissants.
Today we thought that the stage was going to be relatively easy, but this did not prove to be the case, as the 21kms turned into more than 24 kms and over loose stones for a considerable part of today's course.
A couple of us / in our small walking group / decided to take the alternative route, adding some .9 of a km.  This área was over beautiful vineyards and small farms.
We reached our destination around 1 pm and went to our selected albergue La Piedra.  It was great that we had pre booked this accommodation as it was completely full today.
We arranged for our washing to be done by the local owners, and what a service, not only did they do the washing they folded all the clothes including the socks.
We had lunch at a local restaurant at the main plaza.
Visited the local pharmacy for supplies of Compeed / prevention is better thant cure.
Tomorrow we go up again to a place called La Laguna just before O'Cebreiro.
Frank and Julia  / our Canadian father and daughter companions have decided to have a rest here today and will remain here for 2 nights.
Bye for now.  Jose